My Favourite Crag – Hound Tor, Dartmoor (part 3)

nick b

“Hound Tor is one of my favourite places to hone my skills, and it’s popular with climbers of all abilities due to the good spread of grades and styles available.”

This time out we’re taking a look at some more bouldering and climbing routes on Hound Tor.

Remember, climbing routes are in  red, bouldering problems are in  green. You can click any of the pictures to enlarge them a get a closer look at the routes and problems of Hound Tor.

Where is Hound Tor? 

Approximately 40 minutes / 20 miles south west of Exeter, near Lustleigh / Bovey Tracey, is a sprawling mass of granite blocks and boulders known as Hound Tor.

Comprehensive directions can be found on Javu.

Full Moon:

Full Moon, Hound Tor, Dartmoor

Full Moon, Hound Tor, Dartmoor

24. TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA SLIPPERS   HVS 5A   10M

A short route which is started on the left of the Prow.  Move up and right into the large break and make a long reach to the obvious flake (of a hollow/dubious nature) where gear and reasonable holds lead to a dirty but none too tricky top out.
25. FULL MOON *  E3 5C   10m
An excellent route which is safe unless you fall off the top out.  Boulder up the lower wall, (hard for the short)  place as many cams in the break as you can and prepare yourself for the upper wall.  Move up to a small flake and then make hard moves up through the rounded breaks slightly leftwards towards a small scoop at the top (sustained). Lichenous but positive holds in the scoop provide a welcome rest and easyish top out.
THE BARREL FINAL
28. THE BARREL ROCKOVER . 
Match a small edge on the front face and make a powerful move up to a flat hold. Span right to a good hold and make a big reach up to crystals with the right hand. Somehow rock up and left to finish. Very Good. V5
29. TUPPY. 
Sitting start from the low break . Use undercuts to gain the starting hold of the Barrel Rockover .Finish up this. V9
30. STRAY DOG . 
A very hard  traverse from the left along crystals to finish up 28. V10

Further down the slope is a hanging block with a couple of improbable looking routes which may not of seen many or any repeats!

26.     HUNG LIKE A BABOON   E5 6C  7M  
An impossible looking dyno from boulders to the obvious flake. Hard moves to follow.The sensible option is to preplace a sling on the flake. 
 
27. NEVER TRUST A MONKEY   E6 6C  7M
This route gains the flake without the dyno, somehow?

And also.

ALAN SMITH FINAL
25.Start in the cave and traverse the break out right . V3
26. On the right of the boulder are some fine grained slopers. With left hand on the low sloper and right round the corner on good hold, slap your way to the ledge.V5/6
27. ALAN SMITH.
This is the sit start to problem 26. Very hard .V9/10

Skuzz Bucket:

skuzz_bucket

 28.SKUZZ BUCKET   E4 6A  10M

The right hand wall of the gulley up a green drainage streak. Rarely climbed but good moves when its dry and clean(take a brush,abseil inspection recommended)


 

  

29STEGADACEA CHIMNEY   D  26M

A route of great esosteric quality and much mystery. Climb the corner and wall left of hydraulic arete for a few metres and somehow haul up on to t

HYDRAULIC FINAL

he sloping mossy ledge. Continue up the corner onto the next mossy ledge. If it all becomes too much you can escape through the large hole which brings you out at the first belay of the vice(below the pulpit). Alternatively you can battle on up the corner to the top and a well deserved rest. Gnarly

30.AVARICE  * E3 5C  20M

The overhanging wall left of Hydraulic Arete. Start from the crack in the left of the wall, a long reach to the first sloping shelf is followed by another to the next break. Finish over the last overhang. Strenuous.
 
 31. HYDRAULIC ARETE *  HVS 5B    22M
 A good route with a challenging start and easier climbing towards the top.  Start on the large block below the crack.  Climb the crack up to the break (crystal), make an awkward step right onto the blunt nose and finish easily up the right side of the overlaps above.
Easy Routes:
THE VICE FINAL
32.THE VICE. VDiff  23m 

 

Start on the large block 5m right of Hydraulic Arete.  Climb the slab direct to the vertical crack (crux), pull through this and move up right onto the mossy ledge (belay).  Climb easily up the left side of the chimney and then traverse right around the overlap to the belay of Pulpit.
 33. PULPIT.  HVD 18m
Start below the pulpit on the blunt left hand arête.  Climb the arête to the shelf.  Move up to reach the wide crack on the left edge of the Pulpit where an awkward udge or two gets you stood on it.  Climb up the corner above to join and finish up The Vice.
EASY ROUTES FINAL

 34. DEVONLEIGH. VD

Follow the arête easily to the right hand end of the Pulpit. Traverse left onto the Pulpit and then pull direct through the overlaps above (crux).

 35. PADDY    MOD  16M
Climb the slab to the right of the start of Devonleigh.  Move left around the first roof and then back right to finish up the wide crack above.  Would make a great first lead.
  36. ONE MOVE WONDER  S 4C 8M
5 metres right of Paddy is a small roof at about 4m.  Climb the slab below and make a strenuous move direct through the roof (crux) on poorish holds to finish easily above.

 

The Cream Traverse:

CREAM FINAL
31. The Cream Traverse. From the Alan Smith boulder follow a path for 100 metres down the slope towards a stunted tree.(Walking away from the car park) Behind this is hiding a large block which is home to one of the best traverses on the moor. 

Start on the obvious jug on the left and make hard moves along slopers to the corner. A quick slap round this leads to better holds. Finish by manteling on the best holds out right. V8.

In the final part of this guide, I’ll be looking at a few more routs at Hound Tor and giving you my top five. Stay tuned!

EVONLEIGH  * HVD  18M

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