My Favourite Crag – Hound Tor, Dartmoor (part 2)

Exeter store Manager and resident climbing expert, Nick B, has nominated Hound Tor on Dartmoor as his favourite crag.

Hound Tor is one of my favourite places to hone my skills, and it’s popular with climbers of all abilities due to the good spread of grades and styles available.

This time out we’re taking a look at some more bouldering and climbing routes on Hound Tor.

Remember, climbing routes are in  red, bouldering problems are in  green. 

You can click any of the pictures to enlarge them a get a closer look at the routes and problems of Hound Tor. 

Where is Hound Tor? 

Approximately 40 minutes / 20 miles south west of Exeter, near Lustleigh / Bovey Tracey, is a sprawling mass of granite blocks and boulders known as Hound Tor.

Comprehensive directions can be found on Javu.

Shark’s Fin Boulder

sharks fin final
7. Shark’s Fin – Start from the large flake and go to the top. Classic. V1.
8. Wish – Left of Shark’s Fin. Start on sharp crystal for the right and poor dish for the left hand. A hard pull to a crystal then a long move to the top. Quality. V5. 

9. A left to right traverse of the boulder not using the top. Technical. V7.

Top Hat Block

10. Climb the face via the crack. One hard move and a dodgy landing. V1. 
11. Several juggy lines all at V0/1.

12. The slabby face with rounded holds. Quite high with harder moves near the top. V1.
13. The left arete. Nice. V0.
14. Right to left traverse starting from 12, finishing up 13. V1/2.

top_hat

 

5c Wall Area

15.The left arete from a sit start. Good. V3
16.5C wall – Lovely moves through the positive breaks. Quite high but has a reasonable top out. V1/2. Can be done from a sit start at V3 ish
17.The Horn – Start at the low break and climb out over the mini roof to finish on the horn like blob. V1/2

5cwallfinal

AEROBIC WALL FINAL


18. Aerobic Wall Traverse- A left to right traverse can be done at V2 or 3 depending on what height and which holds are used. A good warm up.

18.   LIMBO DANCER *  E4 6A   8M

Another route that is often soloed over mats rather than lead as the crux is moving round the roof to the first break.  Boulder up the lower wall, make a long stretch through the roof to good holds on the lip.  Swing out and rock around the roof (hard for the inflexible) and make a long reach to the first wide break (slopers) (crux).  Finish up the breaks above on improving holds.

19.AEROBIC WALL  ** E2 5C   8M

Possibly the best of the harder routes on the Tor and one you will remember. Climb the crack on the lower wall, move right a little and reach out for the right facing flake.  Powerful moves lead you up through the breaks on large flat holds to an easier top out.  Can be quite pumpy if you hang around too long placing gear. A popular solo.

19. Skin graft – A gruesome proposition. Start on the flake below the lip and mantle/gurn your way over this. V2 if you can do it. V? if you can’t. Trousers recommended.
 20. Cosmetix- A left to right traverse of the lip. Hard moves at the far right end off poor slopers to top out is the crux. V5

SKIN GRAFT FINAL

 20. RAW ONION BOYZ   E2 6A  8M 

Left of prowler is a small roof at about 4m. Climb direct to the large break below the roof where good gear can be arranged. Using a good flake on the right of the roof reach  up and left to grope around for a good crimp. From here make a long reach up to a poor groove and then find something else to hold and top out with difficulty. At this grade the left crack of prowler is not used.
prowed
 21. Prowed – High quality problem with one really hard move to gain the poor slopey hold from the low break. The better holds on the left of the break are not in at this grade. Hard V5
 21. PROWLER  * VS 5A   8M
A great little route and straightforward if you can jam.  Start just left of Little Prow at a flared crack, make hard moves up to a wide break, move left until you are below the twin cracks, jam and lay back your way up these to a nice top out and block/cam belay.
 22. Right to left traverse of the low break .Start right of Prowed, move around the arete and finish far left.V5/6
 22.  LITTLE PROW *  E1 5C  8M
A tough little route that is steeper than it looks.  Climb the rounded rib through several breaks (good cams) and make a long reach out left and up over the top (crux) to find a less sloping area.  Match and finish through some pancake flakes.
 23. The vague arete left of Prowed. Finish at the wide break.V2
 23. SCORN   E4 6A  8M
If you have enjoyed some of the sloping/rounded top outs on the other routes on the Tor then this is your route.  Start in the break (cams) and make a powerful move out to the flake (sling).  From here some manic rocking and gurning may lead to an exhausted flop over onto the slab above.
More to come soon as Nick guides us through ‘Scuzz Bucket’ and ‘Full Moon’ to name but a few…

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