My Favourite Crag – Hound Tor, Dartmoor (part 4)

nick b

“Hound Tor is one of my favourite places to climb, and it’s popular with climbers of all abilities due to the good spread of grades and styles available.”

In the final part of this guide, Nick takes a look at some more routes and also gives us his top five routes from Hound Tor.

You can click any of the pictures to enlarge them a get a closer look at the routes and problems of Hound Tor.

Where is Hound Tor?

Approximately 40 minutes / 20 miles south west of Exeter, near Lustleigh / Bovey Tracey, is a sprawling mass of granite blocks and boulders known as Hound Tor.

Comprehensive directions can be found on Javu.

Liars Wall:

Liars Dice, Hound Tor - Dartmoor

Liars Dice, Hound Tor – Dartmoor

A cracking little route that is well protected. Climb easily to the start of the crack, jam or layback up this then move slightly left at the top. A good first severe.
Harder than it looks from the ground. Follow the centre of the wall between liars dice and liars arête on large rounded breaks. Awkward to place gear and slopey holds lead to a more pleasant finish out right.
Climb the arete with much roundedness staying left at the top (moving right reduces the grade to severe)
Liars Arete, Hound Tor Dartmoor

Liars Arete, Hound Tor – Dartmoor

 24. The juggy wall  is superb but has a tricky top out which is quite high with a poor landing. (moving left at the top is easier at v0) A quality v1 problem
Moving to the right side there is a small block with 45 degree overhang on it. This is just to the right of Liars dice arete. Several problems exist ,the lower you start the harder they get.V1-V3

Downward Bound…

Downward Bound, Hound Tor - Dartmoor

Downward Bound, Hound Tor – Dartmoor

A good route that looks dirtier than it actually is. Start on the right side of the tower, traverse up and left on sloping holds till you reach a left to right slanting break. Traverse this rightwards and make hard moves to reach a good break under the roof(cam). Traverse left to an obvious flake and use this to move up to an awkward top out left on to a grassy shelf. Well protected mostly by cams and excellent climbing make for a great route.
Round to the right of downward bound is a slabby wall with a large crack up the middle. Climb the rounded bulges to the left of the crack on well rounded holds. To the right of the crack is a line which is about vdiff and the crack itself can be climbed at a similar grade.

Nick’s Top Five Routes/Boulders:

5. Liars Dice Grade – severe 4a
4. Suspension Flake Grade – VS 4c
3. The Cream Traverse Grade – V8
2. Wish Grade – V5
1. Aerobic Wall Grade – E2 5c. Aerobic wall is a superb steep route that is as good to solo over a few pads as it is to lead on trad gear. Its mixture of Technical and Powerful climbing make it a favourite amongst locals and visitors alike.
These are just a selection of the routes and problems at Hound Tor. A definitive guide can be found at Dave Henderson’s excellent site
Hopefully you’ve found this guide to be useful and that it’s introduced you to a few new climbing routes and boulders to explore in the South West. Keep an eye out for more from Nick in the near future as he selects his next Crag of the Month.

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